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This area was once a super lake of approximate 30 meters deep, over an area of about 80,000 sq km. Due to climate change the lake has since dried up, leaving behind large glistening salt-encrusted pans. The pans are flat and stretch as far as the eye can see, dotted occasionally by rocky outcrops and large sand dunes.
The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, covering approximately 4,900 square kilometers, includes some of these large salt pans. The pans outside the National Park however include some the largest salt pans in the world exceeding 12,000 sq km.
These pans are almost devoid of human habitation, however there are villages on the periphery and in between the pans there is evidence that the area has supported human life during the stone age. Today, the area contains a large number of animals who migrate to the grasslands in the West of the park after the rains.
The name Makgadikgadi implies a vast open lifeless land. There are stories of people setting out from Gweta to explore the land that lay between them and the Boteti River to seek a favourable environment in which to settle. These people did their exploring during the driest times of the year and were drawn by what they perceived as large lakes of sparkling water on the horizon. As they got more and more thirsty, the lakes kept drawing them on in their attempt to reach the water. However dehydration took its toll, and they slowly died.
However, the Makgadikgadi Pans are not always dry. During the rains from mid November to April, the pans which are situated in half the South, East and North Eastern areas of the park, fill with water. The pans are now sheets of water, attracting numerous water birds and trigger the migrations of wildebeest and zebra. During this time, this natural wonder unfortunately becomes inaccessible by road. Flying over the pans during the wet season, one sees a water wonderland of beauty.
The Makgadikgadi was initially state land and was declared a game reserve in 1970 and in December 1992, the boundaries were extended and game reserve became a National Park. The park cover approximately 4,900 square kilometers.
Vegetation:
The Makgadikgadi National Park has four main vegetation types, namely, riverine woodland, scrubland, pure grassland and salt pans. Palm groves and Baobab trees are found in the pans. The Baobab Tree looks like the branches are roots and is often known as the ‘upside down tree’. In between the trees are short spiky yellow grass found on rises between the pans, known as ‘prickly salt grass’. This is extremely saline resistant to the extent that salt crystals can sometimes be seen on the leaves. The interior of the reserve comprises scrub and grassland with a few ‘islands’ of Real Fan Palms and Camel Thorn acacia.
Wildlife:
During April to November, game such as springbok, gemsbok, wildebeest, and zebra move slowly from the pans in the South East of the park, to the Boteti River on the Western side of the park. Animals accumulate in their thousands during this migration. One can also see shy antelopes like duiker and bushbuck in heavily wooded areas beside the river.
The game viewing within the park is best from April to July. The best months to experience the pans is between March to September. Most of the animal and bird life in this area is prevalent during the rainy season (mid November to April) and this is when the areas are normally inaccessible by vehicle.
The main objective in visiting the Makgadikgadi National Park is not to view game, but to experience true remoteness and absolute isolation. It is vast, wild, completely untamable and supremely beautiful!
If the rains are good and river water floods into the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, the area undergoes a complete transformation. Tiny crustaceans hatch and algae blooms in order to provide food for the large flocks of flamingos that reside in this area during this time of year. One can view approximately 30,000 breeding pairs of these birds which makes the surface of the pans turn a deep pink. The main area in which this occurs is in the Eastern part of the National Park, in the Sowa Pan area. Numerous other water birds are abundant during this time of the year and the best place to see them is at Nata Bird Sanctuary, just off the main road at the Northern end of Sowa Pan.
The variety of birdlife found in the Makgadikgadi area is outstanding and the grasslands are home to a wide range of animals. The birdlife however is a specialists dream. Examples of birds that can be seen are whitebacked and lappetfaced vultures, bateleur, ostrich, kori bustard, black korhaan, bronze winged courser, different species of sandgrouse and a variety of larks.
Makgadikgadi National Park Specialties:
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Flamingo breeding season on Sowa Pan
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Riding a quad bike across the desolate pans
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Night sky covered with a blanket of stars
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Feelings of total isolation
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Complete and unrelenting silence
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Self discovery
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If fortunate enough, staying in a luxury lodge by the salt pans
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Exploring stone age tools
Access to the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park :
The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is situated halfway between Maun and Nata on the Francistown road in the Northern part of Botswana. The most common access is by road. When driving, you will see a turnoff to the parks main entrance approximately 160 km East of Maun and 45 km West of Gweta. 8 Kilometers after turning of the main road, you will arrive at the park entrance gate, where you need to check in and pay your national park fees.
Nata and Gweta are the closest towns to the pans and at both towns, one can fill up with fuel/petrol.
If you are doing a trip into the pans by vehicle, please make sure you let somebody know where you are going. It is advisable to travel with a group of one or more other vehicles. Make sure you have sufficient fuel with you as well as food and plenty of drinking water. A compass is a good thing to have with you as well. It is not advisable to travel on the pans during or just after the rains. If you do, you are more than likely going to get stuck or lost. A 4x4 vehicle is necessary as the road has sandy patches as well as patches of black cotton soil.
Seasons:
The rainy season is during our summer months, which is between November to March/April. During this time, the pans fill up and retain water until April or May. During this time, much of the Park becomes inaccessible by vehicle. The best way to view the pans during this season is to fly over the pans. You will then also see the spectacular flamingo flocks.
The dry season is between April/May to September/October. Strong winds blow from August to October.
Both wet and dry season visits to the park are recommended in order to experience the dramatic differences in the area during these 2 seasons. During the dry season, the pans are dry and during the wet season, the transformation to a water wonderland is unbelievable. During the wet season, one can also experience the wildebeest and zebra migrations
Accommodation in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park area:
There are no lodges actually inside the National Park. The area outside the park however offers both camp site facilities as well as lodges.
Lodges outside the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park :
 Click on the lodge name for more info!
Camp Sites outside the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park:
Nata Lodge and Sua Pan Lodge offer camping facilities, as does Planet Baobab and Gweta Rest Camp.
*Please note that reservations for public camping sites must be made with the Department of Wildlife and National Parks.
Their contact details are as follows:
Maun office:
Tel: (+267) 6861 265
Fax: (+267) 6861 264
Gaborone office:
Tel: (+267) 318 0774
Fax: (+267) 318 0775
Camp Sites inside the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park :
Two options inside the park are available to visitors.
One being Njuca Hills, which has two camping sites overlooking the vast open plains, and which is 26 kilometers south of the main entrance gate. These camp sites have two pit latrines. Please note that no water is available at this site. Visitors must make sure that they carry their own drinking and non-drinking water with them.
The second camping site is Njuea Hills, which also has two camp sites with bush latrines. Each of these camp sites can accommodate a maximum of 12 persons and three vehicles.
*Please note that reservations for public camping sites must be made with the Department of Wildlife and National Parks.
Notes:
Please note that the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park area is in a malaria area and it is advisable to see your doctor before travelling in order to get the best advise on what anti-malarial prophylactic to take.
A 4x4 vehicle is necessary. Please make sure you have the necessary amount of fuel, food, water, torches, spares and medical equipment with you.
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When camping, please make sure you burn all litter that can be burnt.
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Litter that cannot be burnt, please take with you and deposit at the Wildlife Camp upon your exit, if possible.
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When having made a fire, please bury the ashes.
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When driving in a national park, please drive only on the tracks.
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Do not go off road.
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No night drives are permitted within a national park.
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Please camp only at designated campsites.
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Consideration for other peoples as well as for the environment should be of paramount concern.
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